Comme des Garçons explained: the lines worth knowing
Comme des Garçons is one of the most influential fashion labels of the last fifty years, and also one of the most complicated to navigate. The brand works through many lines, collaborations and shops, each with its own identity. This guide offers a short history and a practical map of the lines, to help you understand what you are looking at when you find a Comme des Garçons piece on a rail.
A short history
Rei Kawakubo founded Comme des Garçons in Tokyo in 1969 and established the company a few years later. She did not train as a fashion designer; she studied fine arts and literature and worked in advertising before she began making clothes. Her first Paris show in 1981 caused a sensation. Critics were shocked by the black, distressed and asymmetric garments, which ignored Western ideas of glamour and fit. Over the decades that followed, Kawakubo continued to question what clothing could be, with collections that explored the body, deconstruction and abstraction.
The label is famous for its independence. Kawakubo has always treated the business, the shops and the graphic identity as part of the creative work, which is one reason the brand feels coherent despite its many branches.
The main collections
Comme des Garçons. The women’s main line, shown in Paris, is the most experimental expression of Kawakubo’s ideas. Pieces from the main line can be sculptural and are often the most sought after by collectors.
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. The men’s runway line, launched in the 1980s, applies the same challenging approach to menswear, often with surprising tailoring.
Comme des Garçons Homme. The original men’s line, generally more classic and wearable, with a focus on workwear and shirting.
Lines for everyday wear
Comme des Garçons Shirt. A line focused on shirts and simple garments with unexpected details such as patchwork, mixed fabrics or unusual proportions.
Comme des Garçons PLAY. Launched in the early 2000s, PLAY is known for the heart logo with eyes, designed by the artist Filip Pagowski. It focuses on basics such as t-shirts, cardigans and sneakers and is often the first piece people buy from the brand.
Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons and other lines offer more accessible interpretations of the house style, while the brand has also supported designers who trained with Kawakubo and later developed their own labels.
What to look for in an archive piece
Labels are the starting point. Each line has its own label, and the design of labels has changed over time, which helps to date garments. The care tag often includes a product code that indicates the season. Look at the fabric and construction: some pieces are intentionally raw or irregular, and these details are part of the design. Consider the story behind the season as well. Some collections are remembered for a specific idea, and pieces from those seasons tend to be more desirable.
How Comme des Garçons fits
Sizing varies by line. Some lines use letter sizes, while others use Japanese sizing. Many garments are cut with extra volume on purpose. If you can, try pieces on and compare measurements with a garment you already own. When buying from a distance, ask the seller for chest, shoulder, length and sleeve measurements.
Caring for Comme des Garçons pieces
Many Comme des Garçons garments use unusual fabrics: boiled wool, polyester with special finishes, bonded materials and mixed textures. Always check the care label, which is often written in Japanese with clear symbols. When in doubt, choose professional dry cleaning from a cleaner experienced with designer clothing. Store structured pieces on wide hangers so shoulders keep their shape, and fold knitwear rather than hanging it. For pieces with intentional raw edges, avoid aggressive washing that could change how the edges fray. Taking care of the garment protects both its look and its value as an archive piece.
Comme des Garçons and the H5 lab selection
Comme des Garçons is one of the three pillars of H5 lab, together with Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto. We choose pieces that show the thinking of the house rather than simply the logo, and we pair them with labels that share a similar approach, such as MM6 Maison Margiela. Our archive changes with each drop, so the best way to see current pieces is to follow us on Instagram or visit Warehouse 32A in Alserkal Avenue.
Whether you are buying your first PLAY t-shirt or looking for a sculptural runway piece, take your time. Understanding the lines is the first step to choosing pieces you will keep wearing for years.
